Bum La Border and the Wonderful Indian Army

indian army

Located at an awe-inspiring altitude of 15,200 feet, Bum La Pass (or Bum La) lies in the Tawang region of Arunachal Pradesh, nestled amidst the snow-covered Eastern Himalayas. This strategic mountain pass on the Indo-China border isn’t just a geographical marvel—it’s a monument to the resilience of the Indian Army, the spirit of adventure, and the raw beauty of high-altitude terrain.  If you’re keen on exploring more offbeat destinations, you might be interested in visiting Arunachal Pradesh.

In 2006, after remaining closed for over 44 years, Bum La was reopened to civilians, allowing travelers to witness a region that has long been central to both patriotic pride and geopolitical tension. Much like Spiti and Ladakh, reaching Bum La is no ordinary journey—it demands grit, acclimatization, and a deep appreciation for the land and its defenders.

indian army

This pile is a symbol of friendly border.

Why Visit Bum La Pass?

1. Strategic and Emotional Significance

Bum La is one of the most sensitive and significant mountain passes in India. It is through this pass that the Dalai Lama fled Tibet and entered India in 1959. The Line of Actual Control (LAC)—the controversial and disputed boundary between India and China—runs directly through this region. There are no fences, only invisible lines that are marked by mutual understanding, shared ceremonies, and the omnipresence of military vigilance. If you’re drawn to exploring culturally rich and historically significant regions, check out the Rann of Kutch Festival for another memorable journey.

2. Heroic Legacy of the Indian Army

Bum La is also the backdrop of some of the most legendary stories of heroism, particularly during the 1962 Sino-Indian War. One such tale is that of Param Vir Chakra awardee Subedar Joginder Singh, who single-handedly killed 52 Chinese soldiers, refusing evacuation even after being wounded. His bravery is commemorated at the Joginder Singh Memorial, located between Bum La and the Y-Junction. For those interested in military history, this spot is a must-visit, and if you’re looking for other inspiring travel experiences, check out Sikkim Trip.

3. A Friendly Yet Fortified Border

While Bum La is highly fortified, it is regarded as a friendly border zone. Both Indian and Chinese soldiers exchange greetings, and participate in cross-border ceremonies during festivals and national holidays like Independence Day and Republic Day. There’s even a symbolic pile of stones representing friendship between both sides.

The Journey to Bum La: An Offbeat Himalayan Adventure

Reaching Bum La

Reaching Bum La is an adventure in itself. Practically, it takes 3 days of road travel to get there, and you must allow additional time to acclimatize. The usual route begins from Guwahati, with a night halt in Bomdila before continuing to Tawang, which takes another 8 hours, depending on weather and road conditions, particularly around Sela Pass.

Winter brings heavy snow, often making the roads near Sela Pass extremely dangerous. However, the journey rewards you with breathtaking Himalayan views and an unforgettable sense of achievement.

Getting Permits for Bum La

A Protected Area Permit (PAP) is required to visit Bum La and the nearby Sangetser Lake (Madhuri Lake). This can be arranged through local travel counters in Tawang, usually as part of a shared Sumo (Jeep) package costing around Rs. 5000. It’s essential to carry two photocopies each of your Inner Line Permit (ILP) and a valid government ID.  For other travel permits and advice, consider visiting places like Mauritius Holiday Packages.

While Sumo vehicles commonly carry 10 passengers, it’s advisable to restrict it to 8 for better comfort due to the rugged road conditions. Solo travelers can explore Tawang’s old market to find others willing to share transport.

Sela Pass in March

Getting Permit:

From Tawang you need to get a permit for Bumla and Sangetser lake. The process is bit time consuming and it is convenient to get it done from the travel counters who provide sumo for this trip. You need to carry two photocopies of your inner line permit and identity card. They will charge you at leasRs.5000 for a sumo which includes the fees to get the permit done. Though it is common for 10 people to board sumo in Arunachal, it is advisable not to On the Road: Lakes, Landscapes, and Line of Control

PT Sho Lake and Sangetser Lake (Madhuri Lake)

As you move beyond Tawang, the vistas become increasingly magical. Snow-covered slopes, pristine lakes, and high-altitude terrain combine to form picture-perfect landscapes. The first notable lake en route is PT Sho Lake, followed by Sangetser Lake, famously known as Madhuri Lake—named after Bollywood actress Madhuri Dixit who filmed here for the movie Koyla. The lake was formed due to a seismic shift and falling boulders after a powerful earthquake.

From the Y-Junction, the left road leads to Sangetser Lake, while the right path ascends to Bum La.

Line of Actual Control: A Border Without Barriers

After Bum La lies the actual Line of Control. There are no barbed wires, just mutual understanding between the two nations. Marked by natural formations, radar systems, and peaks, this border is a symbol of watchfulness and diplomacy. While intrusions haven’t occurred here in a long time, monitoring systems remain active 24/7, ensuring safety and vigilance.PT Sho, Sangetser and other lakes:

Once you move ahead of the main town of Tawang, your eyes will be treated with such awe-inspiring beauty that you will start ignoring the bumps and turns of the road. It is advisable to start as early as possible so that you can spend maximum time clicking and pondering over the scenic landscapes. Every click would be perfect for desktop wallpaper. You will come across many high altitude lakes and the first one would be PT Sho Lake. From Y-junction, the road towards the left goes to Sangetsar lake (also known as Madhuri Lake after shooting of Koyla movie). This lake was formed by falling boulders and tectonic plate shift after an earthquake.

The Indian Army at Bum La: Guardians of the Nation

The Indian Army’s presence is widespread in the Tawang region. Post-Y-junction, photography is prohibited near military camps, and access is limited to daylight hours with a valid permit. However, the Army is incredibly friendly, often engaging with tourists, answering questions, and even serving food at nominal rates at their canteens at Y-Junction and Sangetser Lake.

The altitude, however, is not forgiving. Tourists often suffer from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), but the Army is always ready to assist with oxygen cylinders and medical care, demonstrating their selfless service beyond just guarding the borders.

A Salute to Courage: The Joginder Singh Memorial

One of the most poignant places en route to Bum La is the Joginder Singh Memorial, dedicated to Subedar Joginder Singh, whose story epitomizes extraordinary bravery. On 23rd October 1962, when 600 Chinese soldiers attacked Bum La in three waves, his platoon held the line. Even after sustaining injuries, he refused to retreat and fought with machine guns and bayonets, killing dozens before being captured. His valor earned him the Param Vir Chakra, India’s highest wartime gallantry award.

Why Visit Bum La with DarkGreen Adventures?

At DarkGreen Adventures, we believe travel is more than just sightseeing—it’s about connection, exploration, and growth. Our expert team handles everything from permits and logistics to guiding you through history and landscapes. Whether you’re a solo traveler or part of a group, our focus is on safety, seamless planning, and an unforgettable experience. If you are looking for other breathtaking travel experiences, be sure to check out our Mauritius Tour Package from Chennai, Northern Lights in Norway, and more.

With our offbeat and carefully curated itineraries, you don’t just see Bum La—you experience the spirit of the land, the courage of its protectors, and the overwhelming beauty that leaves a permanent mark on your soul.

About the author

Meet the visionary behind DarkGreen Adventures. An engineer by qualification, he left his corporate job in 2014 to follow his passion for travelling and founded this travel start up. Since then, he has been organizing treks and backpacking trips all over India with specialities being in the North East of India. He have also done basic and advance courses in mountaineering. free time, he practices healthy living with Yoga and other fitness activities.

Leave a Reply

Proceed Booking